Showing posts with label recovery. Show all posts
Showing posts with label recovery. Show all posts

Thursday, September 12, 2019

Five Years

Time is relative. We all know that. If you don't know it yet, you will. My aversion to shopping is based on many things, but the foundation was laid during shopping excursions when I was but a wee babe being figuratively (sometimes literally) dragged from one boring store to the next, no one to play with, nothing to do, no end in sight. Can't play in the clothes racks, can't play with the jewelry stand, can't play behind the register. Just sit still, be quiet, and behave. Is it any wonder kids consistently melt all the way down to the core on shopping trips? I can remember the boredom, the horrible keening inside to just GO, LEAVE, do something else, anything else, even run screaming into traffic maybe, just get me OUT of this SEARS store NOW. It was interminable.

And yet, here I am, aged. Kids will be kids, ever in the present, but the older you get, the closer you come to understanding the fickle pickle of Time. How it crawls at an uninspiring job, how it races at a roller rink. Pick your own, those are mine. How many times did I stand at the edge of the skating rink and beg for just one more lap pllleeeeaaaaase mom please, two more, three more. And how infinite time must have felt for her as she sat there and watched me zoom around again and again, music bopping, lights dancing, the acrid reek of concessions hot dogs in the air. Interminable!

So you will have to take my word for it when I say that the last five years have been the longest and shortest of my life. I have experienced highs no drug could mimic, and I've weathered lows beyond my imagination. Losing my job of over fifteen years was a part of it, and in any other timeline would have been the headline, but it was a minor blip in comparison to the real challenge. I am grateful that the timing worked out the way that it did -- being "made redundant" (chip chip cheerio, that's how the Brits do) earlier might've been too much for me to handle...and staying there longer would have been, well, interminable.

Five years and a little over two weeks ago, I was working from home (as I often did), laboring over an email meant to deal with author mismanagement that had led, inevitably, to author meltdown. I was stuck, unable to find the right words for the circumstances, and something terrible was creeping up from inside. I had experienced many panic attacks in my life at this point, so was keenly familiar with the symptoms. At first I believed that this godforsaken email was sending me down the same path. Heart palpitations, labored breathing, feelings of impending doom, all check. But the tunneling was severe, my hands were icy, and something at my core just felt...wrong. I felt poisoned. I felt short-circuited. The systems were going haywire.

I called a car service and signed off from work. From the chair, to the door, grabbed my purse, grabbed the keys, locked the door, on down the hall, into the elevator and down down down, I floated. Just floated. I was here and not here. It wasn't exactly the same as feeling faint, but in the realm. I'd never experienced anything like it. The drive was swimmy and hypersaturated. Everything--the trees, the cars, the people--seemed threatening and close. The urgent care center was mercifully empty. I sat and waited and thought about what I was going to say. I had a feeling I knew what was wrong, but wasn't sure if I could say the words out loud.

Ten months before, I'd suggested there might be a problem to my fleeing doctor. He'd already addressed the one thing I'd come in for, so he was irritated that I was bothering him to ask another, unrelated question. He said, I don't know, I don't know, I think there's information on the back of your insurance card. Then he was gone and I was sobbing alone in the little antiseptic room.

But before that, and certainly after, well steeped deep in a drunken hole, standing half in my kitchen, smoking, I'd certainly whispered the truth to myself. I would lean into the doorframe, lips close to the paint, and whisper it, a tiny secret: I'm an alcoholic. It would hang in the air for one hot moment, almost real, then I'd shake it off, stub the cigarette, and find my way back to the living room to continue drinking. Easy to ignore the nagging voices when you drown them in wine. Which I did, every night, for years.

The first time I tried to ask for help--the busy doctor--I stammered the question about whether or not rehab was covered by insurance, tears in my eyes, and broke down as he left with his unhelpful advice. The second time I told anyone the truth about my drinking was that day at the urgent care center, the poor medical assistant, who had to wait out my braying sobs to get to the core of what I was saying. My blood pressure was way too high--188/98--and policy required that they call up an ambulance to take me to hospital. By the time I talked to the EMTs, the fourth and fifth people to hear the truth about my drinking on that day, I was no longer sobbing, just crying. One of the EMTs asked me how much I drank. When I told him, he made a face and said, "That's not so bad. My mom drinks about the same." Which led to an uncomfortable end to our vaguely friendly acquaintance. When I waved goodbye to them at the hospital, I still felt scared...and he looked troubled. How much is too much? Who decides?

That early evening I got an EKG and a chest x-ray. I talked to one doctor, several nurses and technicians, and it was determined that I wasn't having a heart attack. I asked if they had any idea what might be causing the symptoms. They said that in this case they could only tell me what wasn't wrong with me. Apparently nothing in the blood tests alarmed them much, either, though later tests would confirm both kidney and liver damage. I was set free. I clung to that non-diagnosis like a life raft. If the doctors that checked me out didn't see anything wrong, then I must be fine. If the EMT's mom drank just as much as me and he didn't think it was a problem, I couldn't possibly have a problem. I went back home and went back to my old ways. I promised myself I would skip nights, drink less, try to wean myself back--not off, oh no--but back to the "socially acceptable" level of drinking. For funsies, NYC party party, after work drinks with the girls kind of thing. I wasn't broken, just a little out of whack, maybe.

For years, the NYC social life I'd know had fallen away. I rarely met friends for drinks anymore, rarely went to happy hours. When I did, I would drink club soda with lime, bide my time, then flee within an hour, annoyed that I had to surrender my real drinking time to keep up appearances. I'd tried imbibing at happy hour in the beginning of my descent, downing a couple of beers over a couple of hours, then making the hour long subway ride home to pick up drinking in earnest for the rest of the night, but found that the buzz would die and I would just end up tired and angry. A wasted high. So, seldom attendance and soda and lime, please. My objectives were hardwired and clear. I would leave work before six, make my way home, and drink until I had to go bed, usually midnight, sometimes one. On the days I worked from home, I would only commence drinking after I'd signed off from work for the night, relying on my ability to refrain from drinking during work hours as a clear sign that I was not an alcoholic. I would drink all night, sometimes beer, sometimes liquor, but more than anything red wine, usually cabernet sauvignon. I was a steady customer to a local, family owned liquor store who delivered without judgment, even when I answered the door looking like the actual crypt keeper.

The last year I imbibed in alcohol, they sent over a $100 case of wine as a thank you for my business. I was overwhelmed by their kindness and profusely thanked the person who delivered it. Then I stood there alone in my foyer just looking at it, realizing I could tell no one of my good fortune. No one could ever know. There would be far too much explaining to do.

On a Sunday night about two weeks after my ambulance ride and brief stay at the emergency room, I was attempting to have a "dry" night when the same symptoms started rolling in. I knew immediately that it was the same thing as before, the Phantom Ailment. I called the car service and told them to take me directly to Lutheran hospital. Within five minutes of checking in, they had me hooked up to the EKG yet again, the quiet bustle of 9pm Sunday at the ER filtering around me. I stared up at the ceiling, tears flowing, alone in a row of beds. It never occurred to me to call anyone.

Again, I cried every time I talked to a doctor, walked through my symptoms, spoke the truth about the amount of alcohol that went into my system every night. This time around, Lutheran decided to give me the full ramalamadingdong: echocardiogram, stress test, the whole nine. All told I was there for just over 24 very long hours, mostly waiting to be rolled to the next test. I spoke to several doctors over the course of the night and day, each one coached in kindness that was evident but appreciated all the same. Each time I talked about it, my tears were less severe, I was more forthcoming, and the picture was getting all the more clear.

The last doctor was a psychiatrist, a beautiful African-American woman with perfectly coiffed hair and flawless makeup. She was gentle and kind. We talked for a while. Finally she put her hand on my arm and said the words I was waiting to hear, "I think it's time. I think you know it's time. Are you ready to do this?" My eyes filled with tears and I nodded, lips in an ugly twist as I fought sobbing yet again. I finally managed to sputter out a yes. She gave me a slip of paper with name and number on it and told me she'd called ahead and that they would expect to hear from me the next day.

After I was discharged, a ghoulish, resentful part of me took the reins. I got home and poured a big glass of wine. I drank as much as I could that night. By definition, I got drunk, but it was a shitty drunk, an exhausted, thick, stupid drunk where it felt like there was a fist grinding into the back of my neck and my skin felt tight and brittle. The next day, September 9, I showed up to my rehab intake hungover, chaste, and terrified. As I answered her questions, all I could think was how foolish this was, how it would never work, how I would fail, and what a loser I was for being there in the first place. The self hatred was flowing freely and flooded out every rational thought in my brain. I knew only one thing for certain: There was no way I could do this.

September 10, 2014 was my first true day of sobriety. I haven't had a drink--or a smoke--since. Some days I can't imagine how I got here, but more often I can recall all too well what it was like to get through it, how fucking hard I fought, and I've got to take a breath and just bask in it. There's no victory dance, no one's going to run a flag up a pole, we're never going to close down the set, pack it up, and call it a day. I will have to remain vigilant for the rest of my life, but by degrees far less challenging than before, back in September of 2014, October, November, and on. I mean, it took months just to acclimate to the night. I would sit in quiet terror, unable to focus, unable to function, my appetite shot, sometimes just shaking. I told my rehab counselor that it didn't seem like withdrawal so what the hell could it be? Because it's nighttime, sweetie, she said. You drank all night every night, you don't know how to be. You lost your best friend and you associate that comfort with nighttime. I spent those first nights thrumming and humming, waiting for the world to end, the comfort of alcohol and cigarettes never far from my mind. These days, I can go for weeks without thinking of either at all. They just don't have the same terrible influence and charm.

I was the only "voluntary" at out-patient rehab. Everyone else was court ordered and functioning at different levels of resignation or Big Mad. Many did not think they needed to be there, some were definitely correct. While it was a dysfunctional arrangement (they told me at the end of my stay that my involvement taught them that they needed to separate the involuntaries from the voluntaries) I learned a great deal and gained vital skills to combat the lingering challenges of alcohol addiction. While the rest of the participants were annoyed (or dismissive and unimpressed), I delighted in learning that criminal thinking and addict thinking were very similar. Some of my biggest takeaways:

Your Addicted Brain Is Not Your Friend. It is forever trying to get the candy. It wants the candy. It needs the candy. It will lie, cheat, steal, and hurt anyone who gets in the way of that, including you. Now, this makes sense on a physiological level, considering what alcohol dependence does to your brain and, frankly your whole system. Remember the Phantom Ailment? Once I started getting myself back, I also came to the conclusion that I was a whole person, worthy of being treated as such, and dumped that shit doctor, Mr. Running for the Door, triple booking his patients, wait for 2 hours to see me Mr. Bullshit doctor. My new doctor, also Lutheran affiliated, went over my charts and confirmed what I suspected but was never confirmed until that moment: Alcoholic withdrawal. Because my body had decided that drinking for only six hours a day was no longer acceptable. It wanted more. So it really was a breaking point for me: Either get sober or start dying in earnest.

The physiological side of alcohol dependence is serious (in withdrawal, you can actually die--seizures, etc., it's messed up) but the psychological part is insidious and scary as hell. One of the things they drilled into our heads is to stop focusing on the failure. It's a common fear. What if I relapse? Then I've failed and I'm an even worse piece of shit than before. Woe is me. Might as well drink until I can't feel and maybe stop breathing. This! Right! Here! Is your BRAIN trying to GET THE CANDY. It works the same for smoking, too. I've smoked a cigarette, I've failed, fallen all the way off the wagon, oh look the wagon is already too far from here where I sit in this pity puddle, might as well have another. And so on. You can apply it to any vice, really. Didn't go to the gym, missed a day, already I'm a loser, might as well stay in bed today, too. And tomorrow.

They taught us to take the power away from the act of relapsing by saying it loud: I will relapse. I WILL RELAPSE. So what. It doesn't make me less of a person if I do. And it's not an excuse to wallow in it, which is what BRAIN is trying to get the addict to do. This probably sounds scary to loved ones standing on the outside looking in, but it shouldn't. This is the addict controlling the problem instead of the problem controlling addict. We're taking away its magic. It's still there--always will be--but it's not capering in the darkness, beckoning us to give it up, you know you can't last, you're a weak nothing who would feel so much better if you just had a drink.

Addiction Is More Than Substance Abuse. It changes you. You become a darker version of you, a sicker, sadder, paler version. That's my story. For others, they break laws, hurt people, they brawl, they destroy. Most of my destruction was inward. One of the major signs that a person may be abusing is LYING. To yourself and to others. No one in my life had any idea what was going on and that was by very careful design. I lived far out in Bay Ridge and never invited anyone over. I certainly never admitted to the level of my drinking and laughed along with everyone else at the hee haw drinkity drunkity jokes in movies and television. I dated no one during my abuse for fear that they would discover or impede my secret (nothing was more important), and for the darker fear that I would find someone like me and we would drink ourselves into the mire. Except for work and yearly jaunts home (where I white knuckled it for a week then fled back to NYC and my wine), I was isolated. My face started changing, too. It seemed to spread, dull. My skin was thin and flawed. The pigment on my lower legs got spotty and dark from liver malfunction. I gained an enormous amount of weight.

People knew something was wrong. They just didn't know what was wrong. I lied when I needed to lie. I deflected when I needed to deflect. My life grew gray and opaque. My ability to feel anything was stunted and still. I won't go into detail, but when I think back to the worst of it, my heart breaks for that person. It was me and it wasn't me. The suffering was immense, immeasurable, deep. While it was apparently frowned upon to get too personal, one of the counselors told us a story about his own journey on one of my first days in the program. He'd been using a cornucopia of narcotics, running the streets, thieving and using and getting up to no good. He had potential, had teachers who told him he'd had potential, but had squandered every opportunity to run with his boys and get high. It had gotten bad, he wasn't running the drugs so much as the drugs were running him, and he'd finally gotten caught red handed. He told us that once the handcuffs clicked, all he felt was a rush of relief. Thank God, this is over. I can rest. 

Like, what?! Right? But I sat there gobsmacked because I felt that so hard I could barely breathe. It changes you. You get pushed so far adrift from what you were, and it's so insidious how it happens, how more and more equal less and less and suddenly you're not having fun so much as medicating to keep from flying to pieces. I would watch shows like Lock Up and think maybe it wouldn't be so bad...I could eat that meat/bread/vegetable cake they serve in solitary. Sure! Yes! Because there would be a lock on the door and I would have no other choice than to sit there, sleep there, keep me away from my vice there, and rest. Just. Fucking. Rest. Because abusing breaks you down at every level: physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually. I believed I would've happily eaten the Solitary Cake if someone would just save me from myself.

It's Not a Competition. This is a sad one. Because some of my fellow participants couldn't get past that, either to win the prize (Biggest Boozer?) or prove that they shouldn't have to be there in the first place. Everyone's "bottom" is different. And some people have to hit different depths multiple times until they either get help or die. The human animal is far too complex to ascribe one set of rules to apply to every single individual. It's not a "you must be this tall to ride this ride" kind of ride. This loops back to the Addicted Brain Who Hates You lesson -- because an addict's brain can and will convince the addict that she is totally fine if her behavior mirrors someone else's, even if it's just measured in liters and everyone can ignore that Bob seems fine, has a clean house, good job, etc. etc., while the addict is licking dust off the floor under the bed and contemplating ending it all. But we drink basically the same! Kind of! Believe me, when that EMT seemed to pshaw my alcohol intake, I suckered onto that like a beached fish to a splash of water. Gimme gimme gimme -- I will take anything. Just tell me I'm not broken.

But I was. And I don't need anyone else's validation to know that. I was there. Despite my flaws, and the millions upon millions of brain cells I cabernet sauvignoned into oblivion, I'm pretty smart. I had a serious problem and needed help.

Last but Best: Clarity Is REAL. You've heard people say it. They go to ashrams or church or 7-11 and stare at the fluorescents and Get Clarity. You've certainly heard people in recovery say it. Just like you've heard "one day at a time." Ugh, right? But Lord Almighty is it different when it happens to you. One day at a time sounds tedious, stupid, and simpleminded, but it's a fact, Jack. Primarily because I became so very cognizant of the passage of time. Those first months were slow, slow slogs of merciless sobriety, steely splinters of sun, counting every breath, awake all night, shaky all day sobriety, man. It sucked so hard. But I would get through it, tick it off the calendar, one more day. Those days, one day at a time, were earned.

As time progressed, that cloudy gray life started to gain color. I once told my therapist it was like I'd been living my life looking through a dirty window, everything skewed and apart from me, muffled and remote. Imagine what it was like when the color started seeping back, the window warped and thinned, then blew away like some wisp of cellophane. I never want anyone to know that darkness, but clarity? Full-color Clarity? I wish it on everyone. And yes, it can hurt, like when I realized that while I tried my best to keep my alcohol abuse away from my family, it still snarled out of me in not so subtle ways. The last few times I went home to visit during my abuse phase were prefaced with increasingly hostile emails to "just let me relax" and "don't grill me about how I look or what's going on with me," and a blanket excuse that work was so stressful and I didn't want to be hassled, etc. because it would only make it worse. These emails were semi-hysterical and clearly desperate. And basically screaming that something was very wrong with me and I was being manipulative as hell to frighten away any nosy nancy business. I actually remember the moment I got clarity on that one. It was in rehab and our counselor was talking about manipulative behaviors that addicts and criminals similarly employ to get what they want. I sunk into my chair, deeply embarrassed, never realizing until just that moment how terribly I'd behaved. At the time I wrote those emails, even during the "sober" hours, they seemed maybe a little curt, but that was all. What a difference clarity makes.

And of course clarity hurts when you get to the core of the Why. It's different for everyone. There's no need for me to get into it, but I will say that while it was painful (and humiliating, and infuriating), it was ultimately liberating. More importantly, these revelations laid the foundation for the self worth I have now. I'll never say I'm "grateful" for the reasons (fuck them and the bowlegged horses they rode in on) but I'm grateful I came out of it alive...and changed for the better.

Clarity. I was deep under, depressed, opaque, and fading. I was miserable. Then sobriety, the fledgling, dappled light of clarity. And one day I broke a candlestick and felt something I'd never felt before: Unbridled Joy. Even now, almost five years later, the memory of that day gives me goosebumps. I'd only just found my iPod Shuffle (it is tiny and I lost track of it constantly) and had hooked it up to some speakers to see if they were working and worth keeping. They were garbage speakers, tinny computer speakers with barely a hint of base, but I hadn't listened to them in years and figured I should test them before chucking them. While navigating the twisted cables and pushing the click wheel on the Shuffle, I somehow managed to knock an old, glass candlestick to the floor. Months before I would have flown into a fit of rage, but I just went and grabbed the Swiffer and started to sweep. Then Mary J. Blige's "Family Affair" started playing and something happened. I felt music. I felt Music. With all my feelings. Not stunted, dulled, depressed non-feelings, but real, live, genuine, CLEAR feelings. I danced, I Swiffered, I sobbed, and I cackled like a freakin LOON, round and round. The neighbors probably thought I'd finally blown my circuits but I couldn't stop. It was Glorious. I was overwhelmed. And for the first time in that shaky start of it all, I felt full up. Joy joy JOY. Rediscovering music was transformative.

I had a lot of little moments and big moments in those first six months or so, and from time to time something will still get to me and I'll have to stop and smell all that Clarity. It's transcendent, you can't force it, and it rolls in when it wants, but hot damn does it ever make it worth it. The last big moment was sitting by the lake looking out over the Tetons just shaken to the core that I was there, really there, and I had gotten there all on my own, clear headed, sober, and a functioning adult once more. And of course I cried. There was a time I believed with all of my heart that there was no getting out of that hole. I would just drink until something changed, lost my job, out on the streets, God knows what...or they'd find my body and it would just be...over. Big deal.

That was five years ago. FIVE! At once so long ago and yet just yesterday, depending on the day, the memory, and the varied and unpredictable levels of clarity. I am deeply proud of these five years and I am grateful for the support I've received from my family and friends in the aftermath of all my revelations. Those first confessions were difficult, even terrifying, but I received nothing but love and kindness, which was exactly what I needed. In those first days, those first confessions to medical professionals trying to help me, I never would have believed how far I have come, how much happier I am, and how easy it is to talk about my past alcohol abuse. One fucking day at a time, man.

I am also deeply grateful for the NYU Lutheran Medical Center (now renamed NYU Langone Hospital) for their kind, patient, and thorough care (and after care). The Resource Counseling Center was vital for those first months of sobriety. They taught me how to manage my trickster brain and supported me through every whiplashing stage of early recovery. My therapist, who will remain anonymous here, took up the reins after rehab was completed, and set to work on many of the deeper issues that required excavation, study, analysis, and care. I'd drop her name here if I could, but it wouldn't be prudent. All I can say is that I hope every person seeking therapy gets someone as amazing as her. I don't regret leaving New York, but it was damn hard to leave her expertise, guidance, and excellent treatment behind.

This should never be necessary--Universal Healthcare NOW NOW NOW--but I am incredibly grateful to my company at that time, whose coverage of drug and rehabilitation treatment totaled 100 percent. Read it again. One Hundred Percent. I remember standing at reception at the Resource Counseling Center, having just turned in my first pee cup (yee haw), sick to my stomach with worry over the bill. How would I pay for this? How bad was this going to be? I was drowning in debt and barely able to pay my bills every month. I was crossing my fingers that the money I saved on wine and cigarettes would cover the expense. When the receptionist told me that it was covered, I genuinely did not understand her. I asked her to please clarify. She looked at me patiently and stated that my insurance covered the cost in its entirety. I would not need to make any payments, ever. I said okay, thanked her, and headed for the elevator, eyes filling with tears. God knows there were so many tears and a lot of anguish and fear, but those happy tears? When you just weep for joy? Incredible. Because here's the thing that's been getting better but still has a very long way to go: Stigma. The amount of shame so many of us feel is impossible to explain. There are plenty of understandable reasons why addicts are judged and shamed. I get it. I was a child growing up around alcoholics. Addicts hurt people, often in ways that leave permanent scars, inside and out. Many, many scars. At the very best, it is a big joke, the capering grotesque, smeared lipstick, Meredith Palmer, Arthur, Ozzy Osbourne snorting ants kind of joke. But at the very worst? We are stupid, destructive, Evil. Lock em up, throw away the key. And the sodden drunk, bruised and reeling, will agree that everyone would be better off without him. It is, after all, a goddamned depressant. Some will never recover. They will abuse and hurt and steal and wallow until they finally succumb. Everyone knows someone, many of us know generations of someones, one right after the other, sucked down into the abyss. But there are people like me, too. Not entirely a demon, worthy of some absolution, and one chance (if not many) to crawl out of the depths and back into the light. With help, of course.

I cannot express to you how I felt sitting across from Connie in HR (last name redacted, but some of you will know) and telling her what it meant to me to learn that our company covered drug and alcohol rehabilitation entirely. It was a moment in time, so I can't speak for later, when we branched off to another mothership and then changed altogether from a merger, but at the exact moment I needed that support, it was there. No words can honor it.

Before I sign off, one last thing: If you think you are in trouble, seek help. There are resources, and it doesn't cost anything to do some research. Start online--there are plenty of websites, articles, and even quizzes to assess if you are in need of help. Don't be scared. I know that even this step can seem too difficult to bear. There are various symptoms of alcoholism and alcohol abuse (not exactly the same, but both can and will receive treatment)--you don't have to have all of them to qualify. For example, in my case, I

  • craved alcohol, 
  • drank alone and in secret, 
  • lied about my drinking, 
  • felt ashamed of my drinking,
  • put my drinking above everything else, 
  • had to drink more to achieve an "acceptable" high, and
  • drank to deal with stress and drown out issues I didn't want to face. 

Some believe that you have to drink every waking hour to truly have a "problem" but that is just not the case. Remember, not a competition.

Leave your shame behind and face your challenges head on. Be honest with yourself. Don't live in fear of failure or relapsing. You are worth saving.


Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks (430 miles total)


The only amount of time I put aside to explore two major national parks added up to no more than a day. There were two big stops to make, both in Yellowstone, so I figured time wouldn't be a problem. And it wasn't, exactly, but I could understand a reader's annoyance upon realizing that I drove through both parks twice and explored only a fraction of what each has to offer.

Gas station dino says "RARR ROW"
Thank God I sprung for the annual pass ($80 and already used several times) since the combined charge for both parks, which are back to back, is $50. Some might think that's a lot to spend for a trip that could be summed up almost entirely as "a pretty drive"...and I wouldn't necessarily disagree. 

I did see things, though. Beautiful things, wild things. Beautiful, wildly frustrating things. It was worth it and I was lucky to get the chance to see what I did.


The road up the Grand Teton National Park is very straightforward. There are fields and turnoffs to either side, the speed limit is 45 mph, and the mountains come into quick focus as visitors draw closer. The most striking thing about the Tetons is their shape and incredible immediacy. They are razor sharp, jutting rudely from the ground like a massive beast died as he tried to break free from the earth, his claws forever turned upward, defiant and extremely dangerous still. 

I couldn't figure why these mountains were so different, so intimately fierce, until I read the map they gave me at the park entrance. The Tetons are relative babies in the grand scope of mountains of this earth and have little to no foothills. You don't always realize how much foothills temper your sense of scale when it comes to viewing different mountain ranges throughout the country. That is why the Tetons are so shocking--the lands surrounding are hilly, true, but there is no steady rise to the base--it's just land, then rock shooting into the sky, sharp, snow covered, and abrupt. In this beautiful country, with so many natural wonders to see and experience, the Grand Tetons have to be in my top five of MUST SEE places. It is worth the effort.


There is a part of the park that falls behind a large bank of trees. I was aware a large lake was unfolding beside me, but didn't get much of a look at it until I rounded one particular curve...

Okayyy. So, I know I can be ebullient and over the top screamy about stuff, especially since the things I've seen over the course of these past months have been intense, overwhelming, and really quite scream-worthy, so I beg forgiveness if I flail my words about too hard and leave you feeling bruised and tired from all the emotional shouting. Part of it is just me. I've never not been this way, and in this blog I'm more often than not just saying exactly what I mean. This isn't kindergarten; no one gets to smack me for coloring outside the lines.

But! The other part is recovery. Because there was so much more to recover from than just not drinking anymore. That's only step one. Then I had to deal with all the other shit that came crashing down around my head in the wake of such a titanic shift in priorities and habits. For example, consider the abandoned rest stop in Nowhere, Idaho, approximately eleven p.m. When I first stopped drinking my anxiety at night shot through the roof. As soon as the sun set, the terror would rise. I would just sweat it out, ticking off each hour until bed time before getting under the covers to try not to listen to my heartbeat going WHAMWHAMWHAM. It sucked.

The next day, after I composed myself and added lipstick.
I asked my counselor at rehab to please explain this bullshit phenomena and she said it was quite simple. Since my habit was to abstain until quitting time, I was used to being drunk at night, every night. Being sober instead was akin to walking through the day like normal, solid ground underfoot, then as the dark descended, suddenly looking down to see I'd been walking over a cavern on a tightrope, with the whole physical world dropped out underneath me. 

It took a long time for me to normalize the night (compounded by a Panic Attack Renaissance that screwed up my entire life for awhile)...the very idea of driving alone at night would have been unthinkable. And to spend one minute in that empty rest area? Horrifying. Car sleeping at all? Impossible. This road trip...or the last? Never in a million years.

So when I rounded that curve and saw the Tetons set back behind Jackson Lake, I had to pull over. Thankfully there was a space for just this photo opportunity...or to just catch my breath and take stock. I know exactly how far I've come (and how far I have to go), and to feel the full measure of that progress when standing before something greater, infinite, and astonishing...the words just lose cohesion and shape, then fall flat and ashy gray to the wayside. And I cried. Because it was too much. In all the best ways.


When I collected myself I continued onward toward Yellowstone National Park. I knew I would just be driving past the Tetons with no planned stops, but there were two specific destinations in Yellowstone. One is highly predictable: Old Faithful; the other less so, though well known: Grand Prismatic Spring.

The main thing I wanted to see was that Spring. If you've ever seen pictures of it, you will know why. It is a RAINBOW UNICORN SPRING. It is magical...but we'll get to that in a minute.

I didn't get to see anything on the eastern side of Yellowstone since I entered the park from the south and kept to the western roads that led to Old Faithful and Grand Prismatic. Much of the drive, while pretty, can get repetitive. Plus the shuffling shadows of the trees and sunlight made me drowsy. I want to say nicer things, I do...but much of the park that I saw was not terribly extraordinary. You can see better sights in many other places of the country...for free. RUDE. I know. But I said what I said.


A captive audience.
Anyway, the great thing about Old Faithful is that parking is right next to it so you can stroll your lazy (or nonlazy, claim your name) ass over to the viewing area in less than five minutes and then wait for The Big Event to occur. Everything I learned about this geyser was via people talking around me so nyeh I don't have to cite anything so we'll give ol' Wikipedia a break. While we will assume it is called Old Faithful because it does regularly spray a plume of water...it's not on the dot. And when you are cold and shivering and waiting for awhile, your butt numb, and your ears missing, you start to tell yourself jokes about Old Unfaithful...and then it starts to manifest out of grumbling mouths all around. Which is funnier because everyone is thinking the same thing: Let's Get This Show On the Road. Ya Geyser. 

Old Faithful blows every 40 to 120 minutes. The most common question people ask as they approach the viewing area is "How long have you been here?" Because while we all want to see it, we collectively have the patience of a gnat.



I took pictures to show what it does in the meantime. It constantly spews steam, so that's something. But there are tons of springs and geysers around Yellowstone doing that. Sometimes water bubbles up and you think this is it this is it. Then it's not. 

While waiting I noticed the most adorable little relationship blooming behind me. The tiniest photographer I have ever seen was trying to capture a raven on film. And I really do mean on film. The camera he had was enormous, with a lens longer than the kid's forearm practically. I couldn't get over it. How on earth did he get a camera like that?? My guess is that his mom or pop is a photographer. What else makes sense?

The raven, fully acclimated to the Foodapes that gather in this area of the park, danced around the boy, waiting to see what was up, clearly hoping for a treat. It was so cute I started taking pictures. For the record, they are from pretty far away and should not be identifiable. I did consider that, but the cute factor won...a publisher (ahem) might disagree, but that's not at issue here.





It got weird when another tourist did her own dance toward the raven...I guess to try and get it to come closer to her and her comrades? I wasn't close enough to determine what it was all about. The boy patiently waited for the intrusion to conclude then continued on with his own study of the big, shiny bird. Eventually the raven realized she wasn't getting anything other than attention and took to the sky.


Some four hundred years later, Old Faithful finally blew. It was impressive. It even made a rainbow. But I was dying to get to the Grand Prismatic Spring, so hightailed it out of there and got back on the road.


Rainbow!

Wild clouds over the climb to the springs.
In order to reach the spring, you must first climb a hill, then walk over this precarious walkway with no handrails back to where the Grand Prismatic is located. It was a windy day, but not ferociously so, still it meant that the steam from all of the area springs and geysers continuously flowed over the hill and the walkway, sometimes so thick that I had to just stop and wait it out. I couldn't see a foot in front of me, let alone my own feet below. Falling off the path was a real possibility and that would have been extremely dangerous.

Some hot springs can be enjoyed by members of the animal kingdom who are really into Hot Tubbin', usually of the monkey and ape variety, but no doubt a water dog would enjoy the sensation as well. We've all seen the snow monkeys in Japan. But God help you if you fall into the Grand Prismatic Spring or any of the other springs in Yellowstone. People have died.



As tourists make their way up the hill, they are treated to a view of the runoff from all springs in the immediate area, the first of which is the Excelsior. I managed to get a couple of shots that show its lovely blue center, but it was mostly shrouded in steam on the day I visited.

A closer view of the runoff near the Excelsior.

The Excelsior.

See the blue?

As I made my way toward the Grand Prismatic--the main attraction--I quickly realized I was not going to see it in its full beauty, if at all. The entire area was covered with steam. I could see the outlying runoff, and the beautiful, colorful bacteria fields that live by the springs, but those colorful edges, and the deep, jewel blue of the center eluded my vision almost completely. I took as many pictures as I could in hopes of capturing something, but as you can see, it was largely unsuccessful. 

The following pictures feature the bacteria fields around the springs...

...people are warned to never step off the path for fear of being burned...

...but the delicate ecosystems of these bacteria fields depend on us...

...to keep our wits and stay on the path...

...or destroy millions of little lives with carelessness.

I expected to feel more disappointed, but there's something about the thrill of the danger than offsets that. Being cloaked in steam, with voices all around, screaming and giggling and having a great old time, was quite simply a blast. As was the notion that I was standing over a literal hotbed of volcanic activity, so hot in fact that it could make my blood run cold if I dared to overthink it. 

The following pictures are my attempt to capture...

...the elusive Grand Prismatic Spring...

...which is hiding just under that blanket of steam. See it?

And there was a consolation prize: The achingly beautiful Turquoise Pool. You can read about all three of the major springs in that area here.

The Turquoise Pool.

I ain't afraid of no ghost.

Me not being disappointed at the
Grand Prismatic Spring.
After a long day of driving, I was ready to find the hotel and some chow. I hoped the town of West Yellowstone wasn't too far, then chortled when I realized it was literally just outside the west gate. I stayed at the Stage Coach Inn, an appropriately hokey tourist spot, festooned with all manner of dead heads on one very well dusted player piano. The service was great, the breakfast the next morning was good, and the room was fine, save one thing: It had one of those no-edge showers, the kind where water just goes all over the floor? It wouldn't have been an issue, except it wet the carpet just outside the bathroom...who knows how long, years?...leaving a discolored section that smelled mildewy. And I stepped on it, too, well before my own shower, and it was cold and wet and seriously gross. But I doubt all the showers are like that...I'd recommend the hotel regardless.


And I got to eat beets, too! I had dinner at Bullwinkles, which was serving a walleye special that turned out to be absolutely fabulous. It looked so good I forgot to take a picture, but suffice it to say it was worth every penny.


The mileage noted includes the trip from Love's Travel Stop in Idaho Falls, up through the Tetons and Yellowstone to West Yellowstone, then back down again the next day, through Jackson and over to Pinedale. I got to see that view of the Tetons one last time, and I also got to see a buffalo up close and personal (from my car). Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture of the wooly cutie, but I did get some last pictures of coyotes in the fields.


West Yellowstone.